Tracking visitors

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I'd like to get a better idea of how people surf through my site.
Apparently there are cookie based scripts which help you to track
visitors. Can anybody recommend one ?

How do these scripts work - do they generate huge logs, which need to be
deleted after a while ?

Alfred Molon - Photos from China, Myanmar, Brunei,
Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Nepal, Egypt, Germany, Austria,
Prague, Budapest, Singapore and Portugal

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