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- Laptop overlcocking and cooling help
September 5, 2005, 10:16 pm
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I TAKE NO RESPONISBILITY FOR PEOPLE WHO DAMAGE THEIR SYSTEMS BY USING
THIS ARTICLE. IT IS USED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
For once, I'm not going to be the one asking all the questions,
instead, I'm going to make a rather basic tutorial to welcome people
into the world of laptop overclocking.
I'm only going to be able to help out with systems to the similar spec
of my own (obv because I haven't tried using anyone elses). So, my
system is as follows:
--- ACER TM4502LCi ---
1.6 GHz 100MHz Bus 400MHz FSB Dothan Core Overclocked to 1.8 GHz
1GB Crucial Memory
Intel 855GMe Chipset
--- Processor Details ---
Most people agree that one of the best overclocking mobile processors
is the Intel Pentium M Dothan. People have overclocked up to 2.7GHz and
counting. It seems to have a lot more potential than the Banias core.
The bonus of the Pentium M is that the voltage is easily adjusted using
a host of applications on the internet, I suggest CHC (Centrino
Hardware Control) - as it provides maximum functionality. Also, it can
run HOT up to 100 Degrees Celcius before it finally shuts down the
laptop, so it seems to be one of the best candidates for overclocking.
--- SOFTWARE NEEDED ---
CHC (Centrino Hardware Control) - http://www.pbus-167.com/chc.htm
CPUID - http://www.cpuid.org/clockgen.php
CLOCKGen - http://www.cpuid.org/clockgen.php
SetFSB - http://www13.plala.or.jp/setfsb /
SuperPI - http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=36
Prime95 - http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft.htm
--- BEFORE YOU BEGIN ----
As everone knows, you cannot uprate cooling on a laptop, without having
absesses left right and centre. The whole idea is that it is portable.
So, you really need to monitor the temperature. Install CHC (Centrino
Hardware Control) and look at the current temps of the system. Some
people might be panicked to see that it runs at about 50 Degrees
Celcius on idle - whereas most desktops peak at 50 Degs. Using SuperPI,
calculate PI to 1M places and see how long it takes, also keep a keen
eye on the temperature, then you can find the Max and Min temps. On my
Min Temp: 47 Degs 0% Load
Max Temp: 60 Degs 100% Load (then the fan kicks in)
As long as your system already operates in safe boundaries 30 > 70
Degrees, then continue.
Now, run CPUiD and find out the details on your processor and chipset.
Many people will find they are using the Intel 855, but there is a few
variations. You need to download the appropriate overclock software for
your chipset. Using the wrong one, will not actually break your laptop,
it will simply do nothing. So visit the CLOCKGEN and SETFSB websites to
find the one you need. I have the Intel i88GMe chipset, and the only
software that worked for me was
--- OVERCLOCK IT ---
So, you have your overlclock application now. The benefit of using
software based overclocking is that a simple reboot will get rid of any
changes, bonus ! So, take it slowly, increase the FSB speed by 2MHz
increments. Make a note of the speed it is running at, so you know
which are stable. Each time you change the FSB, run SuperPI to 1M
places, this will help ensure stability (but most people run Prime95
for several hours, even days just to make sure). You will find that at
a certain speed, the computer will just lock up - you know you've gone
to far when this happens, so just turn off the laptop, and turn it back
on again. Now you know that it was stable at the value before last,
before the system crashed. Some people might notice that the system is
still stable, but they are getting interference on the speakers. This
is what happened to me, I can clock the CPU right up to 122MHz, but I
lose audio and start getting strange noises. I don't know why this
happens, and I would love for someone to post why. I can only assume
electrical resonance between shared frequences.
So, now you have found a stable point for the system, now you need to
start cooling it. Looking at the temperatures, you will probably notice
it will have increased by about 2 degrees at idle and about 5 at 100%
load. The first temperature reduction technique is to strip the laptop
apart, and to replace the thermal pad between the Heatsink and CPU with
something better. The OEM thermal pad is, well, pants. But if you tear
it out, clean it up with some rubbing alcohol, and apply something like
Antec Formula 5 or Artic Silver 5, you can reduces temps as much as 10
Degs! Artic have produced instructions for this, so check this out:
We use voltage reduction to try and cool the system down. Look here for
a guide on it:
Theres no point in me typing it all out, when that person has outlined
it all. But undervolting reduces the temperature the CPU runs at,
helping it run cooler.
--- CASE MODIFICATIONS ---
If your not too shy about pulling out the old toolbox, then try this. I
headed down to Maplin and bought some sheet alluminium. As you should
know, plastic cannot pass heat as fast as Alluminium, so I replaced
some of the panels on the bottom.
I just cloned them in Alluminium, and this change made the biggest
difference ! It reduced the overall temperature by 6 Degrees. Now, it
takes the laptop 30 mins to reach full temp. whereas before it would
take about 8 mins. I will try to replace as much of the bottom as
possible. But you have to be careful, alluminium conducts - so make
sure nothing can be shorted out when you replace the panel.
I hope you achieved a faster laptop (sorry, I threw this together in
20mins before I have to got to work). Post your success and Pi 1M
speeds if you suceed !
Pi 1M - 39 Seconds @ 1.8 GHz (53 Degrees).
Re: Laptop overlcocking and cooling help
And just for a little more reference, check out these articles.
You'll notice that I reccomend decreasing the voltage of the chip,
whereas most overclockers will want to overvolt the cpu. Remeber the
fact, your running a laptop, so you want it as cool as possible, using
as little power as possible.
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