Most reliable motherboard with USB 3.0

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I want to buy a VERY reliable motherboard with USB 3.0. I would
prefer an AMD CPU but I would get an Intel if it was more reliable.
I do not play any games.  I will not be over clocking my system.  I
will be upgrading to Windows 7 64 bit at the same time.

Should I look for a motherboard with all solid polymer capacitors?
Are there any other things I should look for?  Are there any brands
I should avoid?  Are there any brands I should seek out?

Can anyone recommend a good motherboard that will work well and last
a very long time?  Thank you in advance for all replies.
When I am in the kitchen, I often kick one of my cat's balls.
After I kick it, he will sometimes play with it for a few
seconds to several minutes.  His favorite are the ones that
rattle.  He'll play with any ball that makes noise.

Re: Most reliable motherboard with USB 3.0

Daniel Prince wrote:

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Asus, Gigabyte, and MSI are the top brands right now.  I'm not using
AMD right now, so I can't tell you which ones are most suitable for you.

I have 2 Gigabyte boards now, and am happy with them.  Asus has come
way up in respectability since I bought those, however.

Re: Most reliable motherboard with USB 3.0

Daniel Prince;1341729 Wrote:
> I want to buy a VERY reliable motherboard with USB 3.0. I would

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I've had good results with Biostar and MSI.
Decent mainboard APU combo-->
Biostar TA75A+ mainboard

AMD A6-3500

Re: Most reliable motherboard with USB 3.0

I have been using a system on a daily basis since March 2010. It has a
Intel DX580G motherboard, USB 3.0 and SATA 6.0 Gb/S features. My cpu
is an Intel I7, operation system in Win 7 64 bit professional. My
system is not used for games and such but a lot of web surfing and
document production. It gets powered on around 10 am every day and
stays on until around 10 pm. I do a daily backup to a usb 3.0 external
hard drive.

So far I have not had any problems and really don't expect to.



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Re: Most reliable motherboard with USB 3.0

On Sunday, May 20, 2012 2:49:55 PM UTC-4, Daniel Prince wrote:
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I've been sporting a MSI 990FXA-GD65 with what they claim are mil-spec caps=
...  Power in my house tends to eat boards even with UPS's (tends to eat th=
em too, it just takes longer.)  Board has an AM3+ socket (currently running=
 a 1055 six core) and it's been solid for...  um...  coming up on 10 months=
 now, which is something of a record for me.

Re: Most reliable motherboard with USB 3.0 wrote:

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Use a double conversion UPS.

Another way to try to find them, is search for "zero transfer time".
The double conversion UPS has no glitch on output, when the AC
disappears on input. Cheap ($100) UPS will stop making output
for 8-16 milliseconds or so, when the AC first fails. The
"transfer time" is a measure of goodness. And "zero" is the best.

I see in a quick search, that transfer time is no longer listed
on most all of them.

The double conversion UPS can also make a "perfect output".
If you feed in 130VAC, 115VAC comes out. If you feed in 90VAC,
115VAC comes out. That's because the output stage runs constantly
off the battery, while the input stage attempts to charge the
battery. Due to the constant conversion, the unit comes with
one or more cooling fans. (We had one at work, and it used
to buzz a bit as well.)

It's true, that you can get a "line conditioning" UPS, which
will do the same thing, by boosting or bucking the line voltage.
But that kind of UPS is not double conversion, and has a finite
transfer time when the AC goes off. A transient could still leak

Double conversion comes about as close as possible, to isolating
the output from the input. A transient should not be able
to "pass thru" the UPS, because the battery stage is in the way.
A lightning strike can still kill it (leap right across
all the innards).

Another desirable characteristic is "pure sine wave" output,
which is most valuable for powering PCs with "active PFC" ATX
power supplies. Older UPS devices put out modified sine, or
even close to square wave output. For example, if you're running
a PC with an "active PFC" ATX power supply in the woods at your
camp, and using a 12V to AC inverter for the job, the older
ones of those put out square waves. And the ATX supply in that
case, may not handle the input well. It might lead to a premature
failure of the supply (front end). You want a "non-PFC" ATX
supply, if you can't get a better inverter.

Another way to protect valuable gear, used years ago, was
a "motor-generator set". There, the dirty input power turns
a motor. The shaft of the motor drives a generator. The generator
has the "clean" output. In the event of an AC failure, the
motor-generator slowly spins down. So there is no abrupt transient
seen on the generator output. A motor-generator set might spin
for ten years, before wearing out. And may need a squirt of oil,
once a year. I believe some people might use those in their
woodworking shop, for converting single phase to three phase
power. But I'll bet you can also buy single phase to single
phase units. A motor-generator set doesn't protect
against power outage, but does protect against dirty power.
In terms of lightning protection, if you make the shaft
joining the motor-generator long enough, you get protection
against nearby bolts. It's more likely in that case, for
the lightning to kill the PC, via a network connection or
a phone connection.


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