GA-M59SLI-S5 won't boot (again)

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Here is my setup, all bought "new" from

Gigabyte GA-M59SLI-S5 Socket AM2 NVIDIA nForce 590 SLI motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4600+ Windsor Socket AM2 Dual Core Processor
XFX PV-T73G-UDE3 Geforce 7600GT 256MB PCIe x16
APEVIA (ASPIRE) X-Plorer ATXB8KLW-AL/420 W Power Supply
2 x Patriot eXtreme Performance 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2
2 x Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD2500KS 250GB

I posted on here a couple of weeks ago with the same problem, that I
couldn't get anything to boot. Since then, I got a tester to check my
power supply from the local CompUSA, and all connections came up OK. I
then RMA'd my motherboard, and have just receieved a new one.
Unfortunately, I still can't get any results. I have tried with just
the barebones, CPU, memory, motherboard, and video card, and still
nothing. I have tried shorting the leads for the power switch and
resetting the CMOS with no luck. I have not received any beeps or seen
any sign of the fans, LCD, etc. receiving power. The only sign that I
noticed is that the motherboard gets warm near the 24 pin power supply

Now I'm really not sure what to do. I was pretty convinced that I had
gotten a DOA motherboard, rather than a bad CPU, just because I've read
of several people having various problems with this motherboard, and
not really any with receiving DOA CPUs. I have a couple of questions.

Newegg said that they "inspected" the motherboard that I RMA'd, and
that the RMA was accepted. Does this mean that the board was in fact
DOA (and causing my problem), or does this mean I just included all the
proper materials?

I've also read problems with this motherboard and some types of DDR2
RAM. However, I think that if I have bad RAM, I should still get some
sort of response, beeps or sign of power? Is this correct?

What should I do now? Newegg won't RMA my CPU, but I believe I can send
it to AMD. Is there any way that I can tell if the CPU or motherboard
is my problem? If not, what the hell do I do?

Please, any suggestions or comments would really help me out. At this
point I'm getting pretty stressed and regretting choosing to build my
own computer. Thanks in advance.


Re: GA-M59SLI-S5 won't boot (again) wrote:

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When I look at a picture of the motherboard, I see some switching
power supply components next to the main power connector. Those
components power the memory slots. Are you sure you are using the
right kind of memory for the motherboard ? Are the DIMMs installed
backwards in the slots or something ? Your noticing the heat is
a good observation, and you should find the exact source of the
heat, to come up with an explanation.

"GA-M59SLI-S5    nVidia nForce 590 SLI chipset"

To prove the processor works, you can pull out the video card and
the memory sticks, and run with just processor+heatsink+fan,
motherboard, computer speaker, and the power switch. When you switch
the computer on, the processor can run without the RAM, and
it can execute enough BIOS code to program the computer speaker
to beep. The beep pattern will say "no RAM present". That would
prove your power supply and processor are good. But I don't know
if there is damage from whatever has happened to those components
next to the power connector on the motherboard or not.


Re: GA-M59SLI-S5 won't boot (again)

On Fri, 25 Aug 2006 19:32:07 GMT, (Paul) wrote:

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Be absolutely sure you are using the correct power switch pins, and
use a switch, even if you have to remove the switch from the case.  
On boards I've worked on, the PS fan won't spin unless power
crosses the switch pins. Not clear whether your PS fan is spinning.
If the board has an LCD that is supposed to be lit when power is on
and it isn't, you may have never correctly switched.


Re: GA-M59SLI-S5 won't boot (again)

On 25 Aug 2006 11:59:28 -0700, wrote:

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A tester cannot "qualify" PSU as working properly, it can
only "disqualify" it as working so bad or not at all, that
it fails the test.  A better test is to load the PSU as much
as the system would and measure voltage, but even this is
sometimes misleading, particularly if the 5VSB is bad... but
still might read "5" volts.

The most clear-cut test is to swap in a known viable (for
same/similar-enough system) and proven working (to power
another system) PSU, or if it can't be pre-qualified, at
least a PSU known to be of good quality and sufficient
capacity (IE- not a generic brand).

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I don't recall your other thread about the board, did the
old board EVER post, even once, or never?

One thing I wonder if it your memory is viable or damaged if
you had a way to check that, and/or if there is a plastic
insulator under the battery that needs to be removed first.
Pull the battery out and confirm there isn't a slip of
plastic in there, while the AC is disconnected from the PSU.
Leave battery out for 10 minutes, to clear CMOS too.

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Try another video card and/or memory if possible.  If you
are using multiple memory modules, use only one for the time
being, then try using only the other one.  Remember to
always unplug (or switch off) the AC power before changing
anything like this, it is easy to forget if you keep working
at it for a long time or late.

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I hope you aren't trying to run this on anti-static
packaging.  Don't ever do that, put it in a case (being sure
you dont' have any misplaced standoffs shorting the back of
the board), or on a completely non-conductive surface such
as cardboard, wood, non-metallic plastic, etc.

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Dead CPUs are extremely uncommon.  Perhaps not impossible
though, you might be the one person in a million but it is
among the last things to suspect unless something bad had
happened, like if you had tried to run (turn on) the system
without the heatsink installed.

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The latter, it only means they accepted it, not that it is
any proof of a problem with it.  In fact, many boards that
get returned to them, whether perfect or not, end up getting
sold as refurbished (though there are other channels for
refurbished goods too).

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Not necessarily.  If you have no other parts around to swap
in, I recommend going ahead and RMAing any parts that might
be bad, get all these RMA #s and pack then in separate
boxes, but put all boxes in one big box to Newegg to save on
shipping... just be SURE the RMA # is very plainly and
largest printed on each box, preferribly on a giant label so
they don't accidentally overlook that multiple RMA were in
one big box.  

I've sent in stuff like this before, but check their
policies, they might change a policy like this at any time.

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Why not?  Is it beyond the time period?
You might try calling them and explaining that it was an
issue of thinking it was the board, that only because you
had the RMA for the motherboard was it longer till you RMA'd
the CPU.   Sometimes it may matter which CSR you talk to,
but Newegg does document calls so you'd need to present the
argument/pleading for the RMA as if there were extenuating
curcumstances not mentioned previously.

If all else fails, go ahead and RMA it to AMD... but find
out how long it'll take them to get the replacement, you
dont' want to be sitting on a motherboard that goes out of
seller warranty period yet if possible.  Then again, I doubt
it's the CPU, and doubt it's two motherboards in a row.

It seems more likely something mentioned above, either the
board sitting on anti-static (or chassis short), the
battery, the memory, or the PSU.

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IMO, odds are 40:1 or higher that it's the board, not the
CPU.  That doesn't help that "1" person but until you have
another way, you must go with odds... but at this point I
suspect it's neither.  Something else you might try in
addition to memory RMA, is RMA the board for a different
make and model.

It might help a lot if you had a friend local who would do
some parts swapping... take the parts over to their house
and it shouldn't take long.  

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