ECS P4M900T-M won't boot, just installed.

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Hello, I have just installed a ECS P4M900T-M motherboard and can't get it to
boot. Had to go back to my old system with the motherboard out of the case
for a temp computer until I figure this out. After I got the board in, of
course there is something else that you have to buy. So I went and got a
Antec 500w power supply to work with the board. I am getting nothing on the
screen. Everything is set to default on the board.

I am running a duo core e6300 Intel processor with 2 gigs of Kingston ddr2
667 5300 memory. Everything else is coming right off the board.

Funny thing happens when I plug in the aux 12v plug in the middle of the
board, after about 30 seconds, it will shut off the whole system. If I leave
it unplugged it will keep running. So I am thinking that maybe I just a bad
board or a power supply. All the fans and everthing else works, but nothing
on the screen. Anyone have a starting poing that I can start here from?

I have done a few systems so this isn't my first one. But kinda of stumped

Re: ECS P4M900T-M won't boot, just installed.

Martin Brewer wrote:
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The 2x2 ATX12V plug, is a source of +12V to the Vcore circuit next
to the processor. Your board has a three phase regulator (three identical
coils in plastic square holders). The fourth coil is on the inlet side,
and it connects right to the 2x2 power plug.

The 2x2 plug has two yellow wires and two black wires. On my supply here,
the two yellow wires are on the side with the plastic latch. The latch on
the motherboard connector is on the left of it. Which means, when the power
supply is plugged in there, the two yellow wires should be on the left hand

Things to try:

1) Ensure the computer case speaker is plugged in. Now, in the case of your
    board, I think I see a piezoelectric buzzer in the lower right corner. If
    the board is going to beep, that could be the source of the beep sound.
    So there may not even be a place to plug in your computer speaker. I searched
    for "speaker" in the PDF version of the manual, but didn't find it.

2) Remove the video card and also any sticks of RAM. What we're trying to
    encourage here, is to get the motherboard to beep.

3) Now, plug in the power and try it. If the BIOS chip is present in the socket,
    the processor and heatsink/fan are fitted, the board should beep the "missing
    RAM" code, because we removed the RAM to make that happen.

If you can get it to beep, then you can try adding one stick of RAM, and see
what symptoms you get. If it goes dead silent, it could be the stick of
RAM is bad.


Re: ECS P4M900T-M won't boot, just installed.

Paul, thank. I can't find the darn speaker pins. There is a front panel
(audio header) and one set of pins that read (spdif) in the manual. I have
to play around with it a little bit more. I wondering if something is
grounding on the bottom of the board? I might have to loosen it up and raise
it a little and then boot it to see if this makes a difference if I can't
get the speaker hooked up.

What's funny is that I am using Kingston memory. There site says that I
should be using KVR667D2N5/1G. But the memory that I got from Best Buy has
on it that reads  KVR667D2/1GR on it. I see the that NewEgg has that model
so I don't know if maybe I might have the wrong memory in there. Like you
said, it would be a big help if I can hear the error code. Arrgg!, it's
never easy.

Note: I don't have a video card installed in it right now because mine was a
AGP. This board requires PCI-Express. So I have been trying to get this
thing going with just the onboard video. Maybe I need to go out and buy a
video card now.

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Re: ECS P4M900T-M won't boot, just installed.

Martin Brewer wrote:
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The modules appear to be identical, so I don't think that is the problem.
Initially the trailing "R" bothered me, but comparing these two datasheets,
I can't see an obvious difference between them. The datasheets differ in
age by a couple years.

When I said speaker, I was referring to the computer case internal speaker.
Since the motherboard has a piezoelectric device in the lower right hand
corner of the board, the connection to the speaker should not be needed.
You can visually verify that the piezo is present - if it is missing, then
you'd need to find "SPKR" pins on the PANEL header, and hook up a normal
computer case internal speaker. (I checked the manual, and "PANEL1" is
a 2x5, with four interfaces total - reset_sw/power_sw/HDD_LED/MSG_LED -
so no SPKR there.)

You shouldn't need a video card. My suggestion to remove any video card
and RAM, is to try to get a beep code. To generate a beep, generally you need
the CPU installed, and a valid BIOS chip in the BIOS chip socket. If
the motherboard is working, the BIOS code can discover the RAM is missing,
and that should generate a beep pattern.

When installing a motherboard, the standoffs should only be installed in
holes, where there is a matching plated hole on the underside of the
board. For example, on my Nforce2 board, one location must remain blank,
because there is no hole that matches. When users of that board install
a standoff underneath that point, it shorts out one channel of the onboard
audio. The thing is, the plated holes are at ground potential (they aren't
separated electrically), The intent is, for ground to be connected to the
bottom of the board. (Perhaps better for emissions - not sure it really
is the best thing for electrostatic protection.)

When I position a board in a case, I use a video card, a PCI card, and the
motherboard. The purpose of the two cards, is to check alignment of the
slots. Usually, the mechanical alignment is pretty good, so that when
viewing the standoffs, the threads are dead center. I start with the
board dead center, tighten a couple screws, and then check that my test
cards move smoothly into  and out of the slots. If not, the board may need
to be jockeyed a tiny bit, so everything works well.

But trying the board outside the computer case, will eliminate shorting to
the bottom as a problem.

I'm not really certain, what the significance is of the power going off
after 30 seconds. If the motherboard was a Biostar, I might suspect their
12V wiring method. Biostar likes to join the 12V from the main connector,
to the 12V from the 2x2 connector. In theory, an ATX 2.0+ supply might not
appreciate that. If the actual supply outputs were independent (12V1/12V2),
you could get a loop current, which may trigger overcurrent. But with the ATX
power supplies, that doesn't seem to be the way they are designed. It is
more likely to be one common 12V output circuit, plus two current limiters
(one for 12V1 and one for 12V2).

If you cannot get it to beep, with the RAM missing, but a processor installed
and both fan header and ATX12V 2z2 connected, I'd send the board back. You
could check for voltages on the main connector, with a multimeter, to see
if the power supply is delivering what it is supposed to. I clip the
multimeter black lead, to a screw in the I/O area, and then only have
to handle the red lead to make voltage measurements. On modern supplies,
you'd expect to find +3.3V, +5V, +12V (main and 2x2), -12V (used by serial
port perhaps), +5VSB (standby power while sleeping). Your manual shows the
pinout for the 24 pin connector. BTW - this has got to be the biggest
PDF for a motherboard manual, I've ever downloaded :-) 35MB! Good thing
I'm not on dialup. (35MB)


Re: ECS P4M900T-M won't boot, just installed.

I just got this thing finally up and running. I had a bad board. Actually
the board was damaged. The CPU socket had a bent pin on the board. I don't
know if I did this to the board, or if the party I  bought it from did. Any
event, I went down to Central Computer in S.F. and bought a EVGA board. Had
the processor checked there before I purchased it and it fired right up!

The only thing about these aboards are they are not very friendly to ATA
drive setups. So I just thru the towel in and went out and bought a SATA
Seagate 320 gig drive. And I made sure it had a speaker wire. It's too bad
about the ECS board too because it looked like a pretty nice board and was
kind of curious to it's performance. But this new board is working out just
fine. So after spending $520.00 on parts, I could have bought a barebones
system. But hey!, I would of missed out on all that aggrevation..... :)

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Re: ECS P4M900T-M won't boot, just installed.

Martin Brewer wrote:
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Please do not top-post.  Your answer belongs after (or intermixed
with) the quoted material to which you reply, after snipping all
irrelevant material.  See the following links:

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