ATX 600 watt PS Question

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Building that new after xmas system, ran for about 3 hours now i get

 Its a Intel Quad processor on a Nvidia board with a Gforce8800 card,
brand new WD 160 Gig HD and a standard DVD burner.

Everything was fine,loaded HD, patches and whole 9 yeards. Did a fair
share of reboots but no complete power off's. Went for a quick
dinner,power down system,  come back to JACK.

I get a green power led on system board but thats it.If i hit the
switch,I will see a secondary yellow led on system board come on,
(normal) but thats it. Missing a small blue led that was on before. My
cooling fans (all) wont spin up, totally dead except for system board

I hit the power supply site, check pinouts,did a quick check and i get
below 1 volt on the 5volt line and just over 1 volt on the 12volt

I had everything plugged in when doing checks, and tried without load,
same output. Just dont understand how a noraml powerdown leads to
nothing whatsoever when i come back 1 hour later.

 Site sucks, only maunal has pinouts
DId my system board draw too much or did this PS just quit??

Re: ATX 600 watt PS Question

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If you jumped the green wire to ground on your power supply and got less
than one volt
for your 5v and 12v supplies, then yes...the powersupply is dead.
Not very likely you overloaded a 600watt supply...
so if it's would be under warranty

Re: ATX 600 watt PS Question

bill wrote:
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Faulty hardware.

-- /

Re: ATX 600 watt PS Question

I sell cables that connect power supply to motherboard, and I know
some power supply makers claim it's this wattage but actually it's
much less, because they don't expect users to use all that wattage.
You just bought one that has so called fake power. It's not unusual at
all. The only protection a consumer has is not to buy the unusually
cheap product. Quality costs money.

Jennifer /

Re: ATX 600 watt PS Question

bill wrote:
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Your power consumption, with no overclock, would be 95W for Q6600 G0 stepping
130W for the video card, 50W for motherboard and RAM. So in round figures
(and while flat out in gaming), it would be around 300W. Sitting idle,
it should be less than that. (I've missed out the odd item in that
estimate, but the estimate is just for a ballpark number.)

The low output voltages, could mean the supply is in "fold back". That
might happen, if an internal fault was detected by the supply. Turning
off the rear switch, and then back on again, would clear it. But my
policy, is not to fool around with power supplies. When they exhibit
dodgy symptoms, I generally want them disconnected as quickly as
possible from expensive gear. The power supply maker may not be
very sympathetic when their supply blows up the motherboard, so
trying the supply over and over again is not really in your best interests.

In this list, Ultra is in Tier 5. Like a lot of companies, they
contract manufacturing to others. When Ultra first started making
supplies, it was kinda funny in their support forums, how uninformed
the Ultra staff were about what they were selling. They were browbeating
the customers, in an attempt to remove blame from the Ultra products.
("Buddy, it's your motherboard, not our supply.") I expect since that
auspicious beginning, they've probably learned a few things.

Even Antec does the same thing, and Antec also contracts out manufacturing.
Some Antec supplies have a better contracting source than others. The
same would apply to Ultra. It is possible that some of their products
come from a better source - generally it pays to search the 'net for
info on what you're buying, to see if the actual source is

I have my own little home made load box. It cost me about $100 to put
together, with parts from a local electronics store (i.e. not RadioShack).
The price to build one of those, varies greatly. Sometimes, there
will be a surplus electronics source in town, with second hand power
resistors. You can save a great deal of money, if you can find a
place like that. The $100 is if you are being gouged at full retail
rates. The power resistors are selected, to give a decent, representative
load, without becoming a fire hazard. My load box draws 100W, and
is fan cooled. The low load is used, not as a means of testing
the full capacity of any supply, but just something so I can measure
the voltages, and monitor the supply when tested for a few hours.
I test supplies, before connecting them to a motherboard.

I'm not aware of a cheap commercial equivalent to that home made
box, which is why I built my own. (Some "dongle style" testers,
only load the +5V rail.) Proper commercial ATX power supply
testers are available ( uses one), but they're not
cheap enough for hobbyists.

Pick up a spare supply, and try again. And select a different
brand this time :-) While the above article will point you to
some good brands, you can use sites like Newegg and their
customer reviews, to get some idea what the "DOA" rate is
for the product. Also, proper review articles can give
some idea whether there is anything funny about a supply
design or not.


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