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Ping or Calling Jeff Strickland Please Help Bill Poston 04-16-2006
Posted by $cott on April 19, 2006, 3:55 pm
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> You might run into issues with qualifying because your income is on the low
> side, as you already acknowledged.

RESPONSE: There is no might about it, he will not qualify if he
followed your advice (took a 3/1 or 1/1 ARM on the existing property)
unless he went no doc.

> In any case, I suggest a 3/1 on the new property, and your choice of the 3/1
> or 1/1 on the existing property. Take both with an Interest Only note. This
> will get the payment to its lowest possible number, for two reasons. The 3/1
> product represents more risk for you, and less risk for the lender, they
> reward you with a lower rate, and the interest only has no principle
> repayment. YOU CAN ALWAYS ELECT TO ADD PRINCIPLE REPAYMENT IF YOU WANT, JUST
> WRITE A LARGER CHECK. But, you want the lowest possible payments to
> calculate your qualification. Assuming the SAME rate, 6.5%, the Interest
> Only payment will be $400, or about 20% less than the fully amortized
> payment. When the existing house is sold, then refinance the new house to a
> 30-year fixed.

RESPONSE: I suggest that consider taking a HELOC instead of a 1/1 or
3/1 in your instance because, 1) You can access the money for free
(HELOCs are no cost/low cost borrowing instruments; a 1/1 or 3/1 would
cost several thousands of dollars to access the money in your existing
home); 2) You can borrow just what you need for the downpayment with a
HELOC; some lenders impose a min. loan amount that might require that
you borrow more then you require with the 1/1 and 3/1; 3) You are only
borrowing the money on the short term (HELOCs are not recommended for
long term lending for a number of reasons that aren't important to you
because you are borrowing short term). You will be in a stronger
qualification position with only a 10-20K HELOC balance on the books as
opposed to a 30-40K 1/1 or 3/1 ARM.

Regards,

Scott Miller
National Commercial and Residential Lender/Broker
1.877.716.6495
EZMortgageLoanz@aol.com

www.RealEstate-IQ.com
www.EZMortgageLoanz.com


Posted by Jeff Strickland on April 20, 2006, 8:26 pm
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>
>> You might run into issues with qualifying because your income is on the
>> low
>> side, as you already acknowledged.
>
> RESPONSE: There is no might about it, he will not qualify if he
> followed your advice (took a 3/1 or 1/1 ARM on the existing property)
> unless he went no doc.
>

Agreed.




>> In any case, I suggest a 3/1 on the new property, and your choice of the
>> 3/1
>> or 1/1 on the existing property. Take both with an Interest Only note.
>> This
>> will get the payment to its lowest possible number, for two reasons. The
>> 3/1
>> product represents more risk for you, and less risk for the lender, they
>> reward you with a lower rate, and the interest only has no principle
>> repayment. YOU CAN ALWAYS ELECT TO ADD PRINCIPLE REPAYMENT IF YOU WANT,
>> JUST
>> WRITE A LARGER CHECK. But, you want the lowest possible payments to
>> calculate your qualification. Assuming the SAME rate, 6.5%, the Interest
>> Only payment will be $400, or about 20% less than the fully amortized
>> payment. When the existing house is sold, then refinance the new house to
>> a
>> 30-year fixed.
>
> RESPONSE: I suggest that consider taking a HELOC instead of a 1/1 or
> 3/1 in your instance because, 1) You can access the money for free
> (HELOCs are no cost/low cost borrowing instruments; a 1/1 or 3/1 would
> cost several thousands of dollars to access the money in your existing
> home); 2) You can borrow just what you need for the downpayment with a
> HELOC; some lenders impose a min. loan amount that might require that
> you borrow more then you require with the 1/1 and 3/1; 3) You are only
> borrowing the money on the short term (HELOCs are not recommended for
> long term lending for a number of reasons that aren't important to you
> because you are borrowing short term). You will be in a stronger
> qualification position with only a 10-20K HELOC balance on the books as
> opposed to a 30-40K 1/1 or 3/1 ARM.
>

These are all good points. My only counter is that a HELOC might turn out to
be more costly IF the term gets stretched to the 3 year time frame. I
haven't run the numbers, and only suggested the 3/1 and 1/1 as viable
alternatives to consider.





Posted by $cott on April 22, 2006, 8:46 am
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Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > RESPONSE: I suggest that consider taking a HELOC instead of a 1/1 or
> > 3/1 in your instance because, 1) You can access the money for free
> > (HELOCs are no cost/low cost borrowing instruments; a 1/1 or 3/1 would
> > cost several thousands of dollars to access the money in your existing
> > home); 2) You can borrow just what you need for the downpayment with a
> > HELOC; some lenders impose a min. loan amount that might require that
> > you borrow more then you require with the 1/1 and 3/1; 3) You are only
> > borrowing the money on the short term (HELOCs are not recommended for
> > long term lending for a number of reasons that aren't important to you
> > because you are borrowing short term). You will be in a stronger
> > qualification position with only a 10-20K HELOC balance on the books as
> > opposed to a 30-40K 1/1 or 3/1 ARM.
> >
>
> These are all good points. My only counter is that a HELOC might turn out to
> be more costly IF the term gets stretched to the 3 year time frame. I
> haven't run the numbers, and only suggested the 3/1 and 1/1 as viable
> alternatives to consider.

Jeff, I don't disagree with you on this point, that's why my original
point contained this caveat; HELOCs are not recommended for long term
lending......

Regards,

Scott Miller
National Commercial and Residential Lender/Broker
1.877.716.6495
EZMortgageLoanz@aol.com

www.RealEstate-IQ.com
www.EZMortgageLoanz.com


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